NEW DOG TIPS or NEW CAT TIPS



So you've taken the plunge and adopted a dog of your own. Congratulations! But what do you do now? No doubt you're excited and looking forward to forging a lifelong friendship with your new buddy. The key to helping your new dog make a successful adjustment to your home is being prepared and being patient. It can take anywhere from two days to two months for you and your pet to adjust to each other.

The following tips can help ensure a smooth transition. You can read through the topics below, or click on what interests you to go directly to this topic on the page.

Supplies
Health Care
House Rules
Feeding
Training and Discipline
Grooming
Excessive Shedding
Puppy Housebreaking
Adult Dog Housebreaking
Crates
Puppy Bed Time
Children and Dogs
Watch Dogs
Adopting a dog when you already have one
Introducing Dogs to Each Other
Dog Exercise


Supplies
Prepare the things your dog will need in advance. You'll need a collar and leash, separate food and water bowls, food, and, of course, some toys. We also recommend a crate. Hold off on getting a dog bed until you dog settles in and you're sure he won't tear it up. Use old towels for bedding until then. And don't forget to order an identification tag right away.

Back To Top

Health Care Watch your new pet for signs of illness, nasal discharge, cough, vomiting, lethargy or persistent diarrhea. The incubation period for viruses can be a week or more, so a dog that is healthy on the day it's adopted, could become ill within a week, especially puppies that don't have fully developed immune systems and are experiencing major stress when they are separated from their mom, siblings and in your home, which is new and scary to a young dog. Vaccinations stimulate immunities which increase as puppies age, but they are not a guarantee to eliminate all illness. Adult animals are more resilient, but still living creatures that can experience health problems. New Pet Health Assurance is designed to protect you against costly medical treatment should your new dog get sick.

• Adult dogs (over one year old) should see a veterinarian at least once a year, twice a year to update their Bordatella vaccination if they are boarded while you are away or if they are regulars at a dog park interacting with other dogs.
• Puppies should have distemper boosters and require more than a yearly visit. Consult with your veterinarian to establish a schedule for visits during puppy's first year.
• A puppy under 6 months of age that has bloody diarrhea needs to be seen by a veterinarian IMMEDIATELY.

Back To Top

House Rules
Work out your dog-care regimen in advance among the human members of your household to avoid confusion once the dog arrives. Who will walk the dog first thing in the morning? Who will feed him at night? Will Fido be allowed on the couch, or won't he? Where will he rest at night? Are there any rooms in the house that are off-limits? Kids can and should help, but remember, adults are the pack leaders and the ones ultimately responsible for taking care of the dog.

Back To Top

Dog Feeding Tips
Overfeeding your dog is the #1 cause of health issues in American pets today. Dogs do not die from being a healthy weight on the slim side, but they do die from obesity. Typically the recommended amounts to feed on dog food packaging are very generous and for some dogs can be as much as twice the amount your dog actually needs, especially if your dog is not highly active. Your best bet? Consult with a veterinarian about the proper amount to feed which is consistent with your dog's breed, body mass, current health and activity level. Recommended feeding frequency is as follows:

• 8 weeks to 9 months - Feed puppy food twice a day. It is very important that a puppy gets the nutrition found only in puppy food, not adult food.
• 9 months to 1 year - Continue with puppy food, and reduce feeding to once a day, preferably in the evening AFTER the dog sees you eat (see the Training and Discipline section).
• 1 year and over - Switch to adult dog food and feed once a day, in the evening AFTER the dog sees you eat (see the Training and Discipline section). There are many types of food on the market designed to meet various needs, however as a general rule, we recommend premium brands of dry food such as Purina One, Iams, Pedigree, Eukanuba.
• You can sprinkle water on dry food to soften it and make more it aromatic and attractive to the dog.
• If the dog is finicky, you can use a spoonful or two of canned food to mix with the wet dry food. However, most dogs will eventually eat dry food without a problem if they know that is all they will get, and dry food is a healthier choice for them when it comes to caloric consumption and the condition of their teeth.

IMPORTANT!
In a shelter environment, dogs are fed donated food and are not on a premium diet. People frequently want the best for their new dog, and so do we, however, if you immediately put him or her on a premium best food money can buy diet or canned food, those good intentions could lead to a severe case of diarrhea which besides being extremely unpleasant, can derail your housebreaking efforts and become a major problem.

• We recommend that you start a new dog on Purina Puppy Chow or Dog Chow at first which we have found over the years will get you off to a good start with less stress and mess. After a few weeks gradually begin to substitute a premium brand food of your choice.
• If your new friend develops gastrointestinal issues, please contact your veterinarian, who can prescribe a bland prescription died such as Purina EN for a short period of time to allow the stomach issues to resolve.
• Then gradually begin substituting back to either the Puppy or Dog Chow, or begin your gradual switch to a premium brand food of your choice as your dog's digestion allows it.

Back To Top

Training and Discipline
Dogs need order. Remember, they are pack animals, so make yourself the "pack leader." Let your pet know from the start who is the boss. A new adult dog, or a maturing puppy in your household is going to "test the waters" to see if just maybe, he can be the boss. From the start, it needs to be clear that YOU are the boss. Children can help, but the dogs know children are not leaders and the dog may attempt to dominate them unless the boss (you) makes it clear that bossy behavior on the part of the dog is unacceptable. Becoming an effective leader may take a bit of time with a new dog, but here are some tips to facilitate your leadership position.

• Food - feed your dog AFTER your dog sees you eat. The leader eats first. Also, feed at scheduled times and do NOT use self feeding food dispensers to feed a dog. This allows the dog to control when it eats and the leader should do that.
• The hunt - Otherwise known as a walk. Dogs need exercise and from a dog's perspective, going for a walk is the hunt. The leader leads the hunt. A daily walk is a powerful bonding tool between owner and dog and the benefits go far beyond exercise.
• Love - The leader provides lots of love, attention and playtime. Others in the pack can do this too, and should. But if the leader leaves this to others exclusively, it sends mixed messages to the dog about who is the leader.
• Discipline - When you catch him doing something he shouldn't, let him know immediately, in a loud and disapproving voice, that he has misbehaved. Leaders set boundaries. "NO" should be a loud, sharp and distinct command in a lower deep voice that means NO! Reward him with praise when he does well, too! GOOD DOG should be in an elevated friendly tone. Dogs pick up on low/high voice modulations and understand that a low voice means trouble, and a high voice is a good thing. You don't have to be a baritone to make this differentiation, but it does help the dog understand what the leader is trying to communicate.
• Sleeping - Ideally dogs should not sleep in your bed. In the dog world the most comfortable place to sleep is reserved for the higher members of the pack. If a dog is allowed to sleep on the bed, the dog must be invited up and should sleep at the foot of the bed to reinforce who is the boss.
• Consistency - Dogs are creatures of habit and are easier to train when they know what to expect and when. Be consistent with feeding, going out, play time, bed time and discipline.

The hardest dog to train is any dog that lives his life as a yard dog, is kept in a pen or crate all the time, or tied to a tree. This dog is in charge of his environment for many hours each day. He tends to be environment centered rather than human centered. He typically has not had many social experiences outside of his environment and because he is not human centered, does not care what you think of his behavior and will do what he wants, when he wants, including using aggressive behavior to get his way and is on a fast track to becoming a vicious dog.

A dog which interacts regularly with humans and is allowed in their environment under the direction of a pack leader (you) is hard wired to be more prone to strive to please their humans, resulting in a better behaved social dog.

Humans are smarter than dogs and in order to be the leader of your dog's pack, you must be smarter than the dog and be the dog's leader. This means that if your dog is outsmarting you, pushing you around and behaving badly as he/she attempts to be YOUR leader, get help from a trainer. If your dog is engaged in unacceptable behavior, DO SOMETHING. When you ignore bad or anti-social behavior, you are basically sending the message to the dog to DO IT AGAIN! Verbally correct the dog (like you mean it), restrain the dog, consult a trainer, let the dog know you are the leader, be in control and don't give up. Don't allow the dog to rule your home. Dogs DO NOT discover good behavior unless they are LED to good behavior by their leader, and dogs are motivated to please their leader, it's instinctual. If you have a small dog don't fall victim to small dog syndrome which is when a small dog gets away with anything it wants because it's cute. Don't allow a dysfunctional dog/human relationship ruin your dog, make your life miserable, expose your children to danger and put your dog at risk of losing his home or worse yet, his life.

You can find additional training information at: http://www.hsus.org/pets/pet_care/our_pets_for_life_program/dog_behavior_tip_sheets/

Back To Top

Grooming
Regular grooming benefits your new pet in many ways, other than just keeping him looking his best. By brushing, bathing and performing regular maintenance on your new friend, such as cleaning his ears, brushing his teeth, and trimming his nails, you will build a strong relationship of trust and a level of comfort in being handled as well as help your pet stay healthy for years to come.

While dog's coats vary tremendously, there are certain grooming needs that ALL dogs need on a regular basis - brushing to help control shedding, trimming the nails every 8 weeks or so to prevent the nail overgrowth from interfering with walking, as well as maintaining healthy ears and teeth with cleaning and brushing, if possible.

The keys to approaching any grooming need for your new friend successfully are:

• Slow and easy does it - make sure your new friend is comfortable and relaxed as you begin - they may never have had a bath before, or know what your intentions are when you approach with a brush - go slowly, calmly, and always reward with praise or a treat if he allows you to trim a nail (or even just hold the foot for the first time!) Go at your new friend's pace, and take it easy and relaxed - before long, he will learn that you will not hurt him, and that a bath is not all that bad, and he will be a willing participant in the grooming process for you, instead of fighting it each time.
• Proper equipment is the second key to successful grooming - for example, a short-haired dog is going to need a different sort of brush than a long-haired dog, or a breed type with double or triple coat (like a Husky); we recommend consulting with your veterinarian or a competent professional groomer on what would be the best purchases to make in shampoos, combs, and brushes. With regard to doing some of the maintenance tasks, such as nail trimming or ear cleaning, again - we recommend that you have a professional show you how to do it first, so you can become familiar with where to cut the nail or what is best to use in the sensitive ear area before attempting to do it on your own.
• With regard to bathing, be sure to use a gentle shampoo made for dogs, and try not to bathe more frequently than once a week or you may strip the skin and coat of essential protective oils; ideally, once a month up to once every other month should be a good schedule to plan on for maintaining a clean pet and a healthy coat.

Lastly, if your new pet is of a breed type that requires regular clipping of the hair to maintain his coat properly and to keep it from being matted, plan on visiting your professional groomer as soon as possible to discuss what coat length you wish to maintain, and how often your pet will need to be groomed to keep it healthy. Even short haired dogs such as Labs or Dalmatians can be shaved to greatly reduce the amount of shedding they experience.

Back To Top

Excessive Shedding
Most dogs shed, however excessive shedding is something that can be caused by a number of factors such as diet, stress level and the time of year.

• Diet - Make sure the food you're feeding your dog contains essential fatty acids Omega 3 and 6. If not consider changing foods or adding a supplement to your dog's diet.
• Stress level - High stress can cause a dog to shed more, and with a shelter dog a lot of shedding when you first bring a new adult dog home is a reaction to being in a new environment. It should improve with time.
• Time of Year - The typical formula of shedding to coincide with spring and fall is not necessarily the case for indoor dogs and they may shed at different times.

In terms of dealing with excessive shedding, the tips in the grooming section are important to maintain a healthy coat and minimize shedding. However there are times when you may need some extra help and professional groomers can help with shedding problems, even with short haired dogs that would not typically need a groomer. If you have ever tackled this problem on your own, you know how you can brush, and brush, and brush, and the dog is still losing hair, it's very frustrating. One tool that is very effective for deshedding a dog is called a Furminator. Think of the Terminator with an F. They are sold at Petsmart and Petco. The Furminator has a unique edge that grabs and removes the loose hair from the undercoat and is an invaluable tool to help when shedding gets excessive. Be prepared for a lot of hair to come out and use it in a place that is easy to clean up as it doesn't catch hair like a brush, but pulls it out. Use of a furminator, along with a bath can help tremendously with shedding. A bath washes away oil and loosens the fur. After the fur dries, the Furminator very effectively pulls it out.

Back To Top

Puppy Housebreaking
It helps to understand that housebreaking from a dog's perspective happens as follows:

• Puppies are encouraged and taught by their mother to not mess in their bed. This is the foundation for housebreaking. You just need to teach the puppy/dog that your entire inside house is their "bed" and the place to go and relieve themselves is outside.
• Start by restricting puppy to a specific area of the house where you spend time (so he's not alone all the time). As he learns that he's not to mess in this area you can expand his world to include more of your house.
• Puppies figure out quickly once they are old enough to go outside that it's a good and fun place to relieve themselves and it coincides with their understanding not to mess their immediate living area. Take advantage of this when housebreaking by consistently taking puppy out at consistent intervals and especially after eating and napping.
• If puppy doesn't relieve himself outside, return him to his bed/crate. Wait a half hour and try again. He'll begin to figure it out. Offer lots of praise for a job well done.
• If a puppy does mess in the house, give negative vocal feedback to the puppy at the site of their "mess" and take it outside. It may not go at that point, but if it does, it offers the opportunity for you to contrast the negative feedback that puppy got in the house, with positive feedback outside for a job well done.
• If there is an accident, never let puppy see you clean up. They are accustomed to seeing their mother clean up after them and once they see you cleaning up, the association may make housebreaking more difficult.

A puppy will be housebroken in a progressive manner of maturing, being able to control when they relieve themselves and realizing (with your help and encouragement) that ALL the areas of the house are their immediate living area. Plus, they'll discover that going outside is more fun anyway.

Back To Top

Adult Dog Housebreaking
We are continually asked if an adult dog is housebroken. We will not claim an adult dog to be housebroken, unless we have had the dog in our own home and verified that it is indeed housebroken. But what exactly does it mean for a dog to be housebroken? People think that a dog which is housebroken recognizes that it should never relieve itself inside, but that is NOT how a dog thinks and to train a dog, it helps to think like a dog. A dog is housebroken when it recognizes that the inside of your home is their "nest", their living area, which they instinctually want to keep clean. A dog coming from a shelter in many cases isn't going to know that your house is their house right away; it could take a day or two for them to figure that out as they may not have had a home of their own for a while, or ever. Those first couple days are critical to make sure no bad habits are formed. To facilitate a smooth normalization:

• Make sure the dog has plenty of opportunities to go out and praise when the dog relieves itself outside and give negative feedback when accidents happen in the house.
• Until you are sure you can trust the dog alone, NEVER leave the dog home alone and not in a crate. See the Crates (add link) section for more information.
• An adult dog may urinate in a new home in order to "claim" it (especially if there are other animals in your home). And while males are more prone to this behavior, females do it too. This is marking behavior and not necessarily an indication that the dog is not housebroken. Usually this is a one time event, but negative feedback is ESSENTIAL to let the dog know that it shouldn't happen again.

Some additional information on adult dog housebreaking:

• One intermediate step which can occur as a dog works towards total housebreaking is that an adult dog may go into a basement or another room that they don't spend a lot of time in (like a dining room) and relieve itself there, thinking that's not their immediate living area. You need to point out, again with negative feedback that these areas are their immediate living area as well as yours.
• Some adult dogs are extremely modest and will not poop while being walked on a leash. If you have a problem with the dog pooping in the house after walking on a leash, you may need to investigate ways to allow him or her in a fenced yard or on a staked leash to be outside without you there.
• An adult dog that persistently relieves itself in the house needs to be checked for any medical problems. Urinary track infections are frequently the culprit and easily treatable. If no problem is found, a trainer can give you directions on how to correct the problem. It is correctable, but the dog won't figure it out on his own.

The good news is that adult dogs can learn very quickly if properly directed, given adequate opportunities to go out and crated when you are not home. Remember, they are hard wired to not mess their immediate living area, you have to help them learn that the inside of your house IS their immediate living area.

Back To Top

Crates
A crate may look to you like the canine equivalent of a jail cell, but to your dog, who instinctively likens it to a den, it's a room of his own. It makes housetraining and obedience-training easier and saves your dog from the headache of being yelled at unnecessarily for problem behavior. Of course, you won't want to crate your dog too much, or he will consider it a jail cell. Just a few, regular hours a day should be sufficient. The crate should be roomy enough to allow your dog to stand up, turn around, and sit comfortably in normal posture.

For a very young puppy, the following is helpful.

• It may be 6 months before a healthy puppy can make it through the night without at least urinating. The crate floor should be half covered with a towel and half with newspapers. A puppy will rip up a bed with filling, so use towels until he gets older. These are pretty small areas in a typical crate, but that's OK. Puppy will be reluctant to use the newspapers right next to his bed as he's been taught not to mess his bed by his mother. So when he uses the newspaper, it will be only because he has to.
• If puppy gets up and cries during the night, DO NOT take him out. He needs to learn to hold it, or use the newspapers in his crate, which he will stop doing as soon as he is physically able and gives him an incentive to work on control. Taking him out at night when he cries teaches him that he can control you, delays housebreaking and will wear you out. The first thing when you get up, and you'll need to get up VERY early for the first couple months, he needs to go outside immediately. In the long run the crate helps with housebreaking.


Crates perform three purposes.


• First, crates assist with housebreaking.
• Second, a crate confines your dog (puppy or adult) when you are not home and eliminates the possibility of the dog tearing your house up, something a dog will do out of boredom or frustration at being separated from their pack. This may be especially true of an adult dog that lost his first pack when he was brought to a shelter. Now he has a new pack and when you leave the house he becomes fearful that he has lost his pack AGAIN and can react in a destructive way.
• Third, some dogs will eat anything. Left on his own, a dog could tear up and ingest items that will at least cause great discomfort, great expense if surgery is needed to remove the items and in some cases death.

Once a dog is fully housebroken and behaves well around the house, you may opt to not put him or her in the crate at night. Also, as the dog matures and becomes accustomed to when you come and go, you may experiment with leaving him home outside of the crate for short periods while you're gone and see how he does on his own.

There may come a time when you no longer need the crate, but some dogs never reach the point where they can be trusted to be home alone and not confined. It is not cruel to crate a dog as long as it isn't in the crate all the time. Don't be one of those people who tell us that it's mean to crate a dog, but want to get rid of the dog because he tears up the house... like losing your home isn't mean?

Back To Top

Puppy Bed Time Puppies cry. They're babies. In order to develop a peaceful coexistence with puppy at bedtime, the following is helpful:

• Try to keep puppy from napping for a few hours before bed.
• Take puppy out to relieve himself and put him in the crate about an hour before you want to go to bed.
• Let puppy cry his heart out for that hour. Don't let him out of the crate or even go to see him. He's GOT to get tired eventually.
• After the hour, if puppy hasn't tired himself out and gone to sleep on his own, go to the puppy and clap your hands or make a loud noise that gives puppy a start. One thing that works well is to wave a plastic grocery bag through the air, catch the air and make it pop as loud as you can. This will startle the puppy and when startled, a puppy will instinctually become quiet and lay down. This quieting down frequently leads to sleep because remember, he's been crying for over an hour. If it doesn't work, wait 15 minutes and try again.
• After a few nights of this, he'll still cry, but eventually he'll quit on his own and go to sleep. Once he masters that, puppy can stay up until you go to bed.
• If he cries during the night, ignore him. Do not take him out. The CRATES section addresses the issue of him relieving himself at night. If he persists in crying, get the plastic grocery bag.
• Consistency and developing a routine is key in making this work.

Back To Top

Children and Dogs
Children under the age of 5 are not and do not have the capacity to be vicious criminals and likewise puppies are not and cannot be vicious dogs, but they can be active and lack manners. A puppy will try to play with you or your children or you like they played with their siblings, which is rough and involves biting. Training and socialization from the leader of the pack and others in the family will wean a puppy from this behavior, but it won't happen overnight and children cannot do this on their own. A dog jumping on children is their attempt to dominate them and a child needs to know how to discourage that behavior with a firm "NO" or "OFF" as well as an adult enforcing that the dog is NOT ALLOWED to dominate a child. Also, if a child cries or screams and runs from a dog, it encourages the dog to continue and increase the behavior.

• Do not allow children to hug the dog or put their face anywhere near the dogs face. Kids think they are showing the dog affection, but in dog language it's a threat and could lead to an aggressive response.
• Do not allow young children to walk or sit around a dog with food in their hands or chewing food. Puppies and adult dogs can bite at a child's mouth (face) if they smell food on their breath or try to take food in their hands resulting in a bite.
• NEVER bother a dog while it is eating or startle it when sleeping.
• Do not allow children to approach, touch or interact with your dog while it's eating or to take a dog's toy away.
• Do not allow children to give dogs treats and yank their hand away. The dog may think the treat is being pulled away and accidently bite at the hand.
• Do not chase, tease, taunt, hit, kick, or run away from a dog.
• Do not pet or grab at a dog without letting him see and sniff you first.
• Never leave babies or young children alone with dogs.
• Never allow children to play tug o war with a dog and his/her toy. Dogs don't understand the concept of where the toy ends and a hand begins.
• Screaming or uncontrolled behavior can scare a dog, putting a child at risk.
• Playtime between dogs and young children must be supervised by an adult.

Back To Top

Watch Dogs
A dog becomes a watchdog to keep watch and protect their food source and shelter (including their leader, others in their pack and immediate territory). Spay/neuter has no effect on a dog's ability or motivation to bark at intruders since their immediate concern is to protect their food supply, shelter and other pack members. This arrangement was worked out millions of years ago between dogs and humans and has nothing to do with sex or procreation and a dog does not need to be vicious to be a good watchdog. The dog protects the food source and is guaranteed a steady flow of food, and he protects his territory to have shelter and a warm place to sleep. A simple contract.

Here's how the dog sees the situation.

• The dog is, for instance, in the yard. It sees somebody walking by.
• The dogs barks, and the "intruder" does not come into the territory, steal all the food or kill anybody.
• The dog thinks, "Hey, we're all safe and I still get to eat, that barking stuff works!"

You now have a watchdog. However, remember, a leader sets limits on excessive barking and aggressive behaviors beyond barking should be discouraged. If somebody comes into your home, the dog takes his signals from the leader and calms down once he sees the leader is not in distress or the leader lets the dog know there is no danger. The leader always sets limits, and it's why being a leader is so important. Also, note that a dog should NEVER be allowed to run to the door to check out visitors under any circumstances but, ESPECIALLY with children. Children are not leaders, children are frequently loud and move quickly which raises the alert level of the dog, the dog assumes leadership in protecting their territory and their children and someone is likely to get bit. When this happens, the dog always ends up getting blamed and frequently losing his home when in fact he's doing what dogs do when a leader is not in control.

Back To Top

Adopting a dog when you already have one
Living in a pack frequently involves welcoming new members into the pack. The leader determines who gets in and the followers are expected to accept that, although there is frequently competition to define the relationship of the new pack member within the pack. The leader (that's you) will intervene if the competition becomes disruptive. Dogs can be dominant or submissive with submissive dogs obviously being easier to manage. When considering adding a new member to your pack when you have an existing dog, keep the following in mind:

• Dogs that are spayed / neutered will display less gender related behavior with other dogs, but it is never eliminated. One reason the Humane Society requires that existing pets are spayed/neutered is that it promotes a more successful integration of a newly adopted pet into the pack/household.
• A dominant dog can make the introduction of another dominant dog a challenge. One or the other will end up more dominant, however the process may be more or less painful based on the sexes of the dogs involved.
• Two dominant females will typically always be at odds with each other and compete for the leader's attention. Dominant females do not easily give up their top dog status. They can be very stubborn, always looking for a new opportunity to get the upper hand and never, ever, give up.
• Two dominant males will also be at odds with each other, but after a fight or two males tend to be more prone to compromise and peaceful coexistence, although there are exceptions and those exceptions can turn into bloody, dangerous situations.
• Opposite sex dogs typically get along better, but if both are dominant there will still be competition and somebody will end up more dominant than the other.

Introducing a new dog into any household, whether the existing dog is dominant or submissive typically will have some rough spots until the top dog status is confirmed without question. That may involve a fight or two before everyone settles down, but as a strong pack leader, YOU need to set limits on excessive competitive or aggressive behavior, not only to reign in a dominant dog, but to protect the submissive one. You are the boss, not the dogs. Even if both dogs are submissive, one will rank above the other, it's how dogs operate.

Adult dogs usually do not interact with puppies and many run away from them or growl to warn the puppy to keep its distance. This is instinctual behavior designed to protect puppies from disease and protect the adult dogs from getting a whoopin' from a mama dog who may not be far behind. As a puppy grows and your dog realizes the puppy's mama is not going to show up, interaction will increase, and when puppy reaches his or her teen months, expect a few challenges for dominance.

Since food time is the single most important event in a dog's day, take steps to feed dogs separately so that there is NO competition for food. It will reduce competitive dominant behavior significantly if there is no chance for one dog to take another dog's food, or for any dog to fear that their food could be taken.

Remember, the leader determines who gets to be in a pack. If your dog absolutely refuses to accept a new dog in your household, you have to question who is really the leader of your pack. It might be appropriate to consult with a trainer.

Back To Top

Introducing Dogs to Each Other
When your existing dog is meeting another dog, the following can be helpful:

• When the meeting occurs, have each dog on lead with a calm, relaxed adult handler who knows how to tell the difference between dogs getting to know each other and dogs who don't like each other.
• Keep the dog under close control on the leash but avoid pulling the leash too tight as you might communicate to the dog that you are fearful or anxious about their meeting.
• As the dogs approach each other, watch their body language closely. The dogs may need to do a little posturing, make a little noise or have some hair standing on the back, that's typical behavior that lets the other dog know that they're no pushover.
• A proper dog greeting involves at some point sniffing the behind, each getting a turn. That's dog etiquette and after this step occurs, dogs will generally relax. Some dogs go to that step immediately and some take a bit to be able to trust the other dog and there could be some stressful times until that happens.
• If one dog falls to the floor and rolls over, he/she is displaying submissive behavior and as long as the other dog does not attempt to harm the submissive dog, it will probably be OK.
• If they try to play by pawing or play bowing with their legs stretched out in front of them, they may want to be playmates and it will probably be OK.
• They may check each other out and turn to you with a look of, "I met him, let's go" or just look for something else to do. Or they may alternate between checking each other, checking you, checking the room, etc. In that case, they'll probably be OK.

In all these instances, allow them to sniff each other, and give praise for a nice greeting. If they are allowed to interact freely, some dominant/submissive behavior may emerge in terms of rough play, wrestling, humping (which females will do as well as males). The leader (you) needs to restrain them from any excessive or overly aggressive behaviors. Some aggressive behavior from a dog getting pushed around or annoyed by another isn't all bad as it is part of the process to define the relationship.

However, if one or both stiffen their bodies and stare into each other's eyes with their hair up and their teeth bared, they probably aren't going to become fast friends. If one or both of them lunge at each other and try to fight or bite at the neck, separate them and make sure you assert yourself as the pack leader to discourage that behavior by a firm "NO!" with tight control over the leash. Try having them in the room together for a while but separated and not interacting with each other and try some limited contact a bit later. If that still doesn't work, you may be looking at a difficult relationship at best and perhaps an unworkable one.

You may have a dog that appears very aggressive towards dogs on the other side of their fence, but that is not necessarily indicative of how they'll react with a dog that they meet face to face. Don't let this discourage you from trying your dog with another dog should you wish to add a new dog to your household. If your dog is defying you in terms of attacking another dog, especially if the other dog is not attacking back and you are unable to discourage that behavior, you should consult a trainer for assistance to assert yourself as the pack leader to avoid further problems.

Back To Top

Dog Exercise
Dogs need an active life. That means you should plan plenty of exercise and game time for your pet. Exercise for your dog not only improves muscle tone, avoids obesity, heart ailments and bone disorders, but it results in a better adjusted and well behaved pet. Most dogs will not exercise by just being left outside by themselves. The dog will lay around waiting for their pack to come out and play with them. Enjoy jogging or Frisbee? You can bet your dog will, too. If running around the park is too energetic for your taste, try throwing a ball or a stick, or just going for a long walk together. When you take a drive in the country or visit family and friends, bring your dog and a leash along. If your dog gets carsick, don't let him look out the window as you travel, have him lay on the floor of the car. It's watching the world go by that induces the sickness usually, not the motion of the car.

A Friend for Life
Finally, be reasonable in your expectations. Life with you is a different experience for your new companion, so give him time to adjust. You'll soon find out that you've made a friend for life. No one will ever greet you with as much enthusiasm or provide you with as much unqualified love and loyalty as your dog will. Be patient, and you will be amply rewarded.



Congratulations! You are the proud new owner of a cat. No doubt you're looking forward to years of happy companionship. But what do you do now? The following is a mini-primer of cats' requirements for a happy life.

New Home Transition
Feeding
Litter Box
Not using the litter box
Grooming
Excessive Shedding
Security
Health Care
Cat House Rules
Cat Discipline
What makes a cat friendly and social vs isolated and non social?
Cat Play and Toys
Introducing a New Cat to your Existing Cat
Managing Dogs and Cats when one is a Newcomer

New Home Transition
The first thing you should know about your new pet is that most cats hate to travel. After the ride home, he will, most likely, not be in the mood for fun. For the trip home, confine your pet in a sturdy cat carrier. Don't leave him loose in your car where he might panic and cause an accident.

To make his transition to your household as comfortable as possible, select a quiet, closed-in area such as your bedroom or a small room away from the main foot traffic, and provide him with a litter box. Let your new pet become acquainted with that limited area for the first few days. Let him sniff all your belongings and investigate all the hiding places. Over a few days, slowly introduce him to the rest of your house, including the other pets and household members. It will take a little while, but he will eventually begin to feel at home.

Cats vary in terms of how demanding they are as pets, so let yours guide you to the level of attention he wants, whether it's your hand for petting or your lap for sitting. Provide him with the necessary creature comforts and give him the companionship he seeks, and he will be content.

Back To Cat Resources | Back To Top of Page

Cat Feeding Tips
The #1 cause of health problems for cats in the US today is obesity which can lead to diabetes, arthritis, or even premature death. Below are some general feeding tips for cats.

Adult Cats

• For adult cats, once a day fill the cat's bowl with the recommended amount of food for daily intake. If you cats eats it all in one sitting, then that's it for the day, however most cats prefer to graze and nibble.
• We recommend premium brands of dry cat kibble such as Purina One, Science Diet, Iams, Pro Plan.
• For a newly adopted adult cat, starting him or her on Purina Cat Chow can help reduce problems with diarrhea. Within a few weeks, gradually substitute a premium brand of food, such as the ones mentioned above.
• We recommend canned food on a limited basis to only be used as a treat to encourage social bonding between you and your cat, however the caloric content of canned food can cause rapid weight gain if your cat is not highly active, so keep it limited.

Kittens

• Kittens are different than adult cats and have much different nutritional needs. Be sure to provide your kitten under one year of age with kitten (not cat) food at all times. The amount of energy your kitten expends during the day, and the speed at which he is growing, makes access to some food at all times mandatory.
• We have had success with Purina Kitten Chow as a good food choice for our rescued kittens as it helps reduce problems with diarrhea when a kitten goes to a new home. You can gradually introduce a premium kitten food, such as Iams Kitten food within a week or two if you choose.
• As your cat nears one year of age, he/she should naturally start slowing down. Reduce the amount of food that you put in his bowl and begin to mix adult cat food with the kitten food at around 10 months of age, gradually switching over to adult cat food by the time the cat is one year old.
• For underweight kittens, we recommend supplementing their dry food with a generous spoonful of canned kitten food morning and night to make sure they are getting adequate nutrition for their rapidly growing bodies.

Back To Cat Resources | Back To Top of Page

Litter Box
Your new cat will prize a clean environment and a clean body. Cats are naturally fastidious and most will instinctively use a litter box; for some, you may need to place the cat in the box and make little scratching motions with their front paws so they get the idea. Cats place such a premium on cleanliness that you should clean the box daily or several times a week. Cats also value privacy, so place the litter box in a convenient but secluded spot.

Kittens are typically accustomed to having a litter box close by and may not have the skills to locate a litter box in, for instance, a basement when they are spending most of their time upstairs. Until a cat is familiar enough with his/her surroundings to find a litter box in any out of the way area, keep one in the area where kitten spends most of his time. As a cat grows older and more modest, it will gravitate towards a litter box in a more secluded area and you may be able to eliminate the one in your living area.

Back To Cat Resources | Back To Top of Page

Not using the litter box
First, have your cat checked by your veterinarian to rule out a urinary tract infection, which is the most common problem. Next:

• Try changing the type of litter. Many cats are very sensitive to particular litters so try unscented litters.
• If the litter box has a lid, remove it.
• Move the litter box to a more private location or to a location where the cat spends most of its time.
• Clean the box more often.
• Provide multiple boxes in multiple cat households.
• Confine the cat in a room or basement, with the litter box until it re-establishes using the litter box.

Also, if you have a kitten, be sure it actually remembers where the litter box is! Sometimes in a big house a small kitten can get lost, in which case it will look for the nearest unobtrusive corner to go or anything that looks like a box, like an open briefcase or shoebox.

Back To Cat Resources | Back To Top of Page

Grooming
Cats can be surprisingly easy to groom; and should be regularly, a fact that many people do not realize - not only that you can bathe a cat, but that you even should! Sadly, many cats who are given up or "gotten rid of" because of allergies by their human caretakers probably could have stayed in their home if the owner had gotten the cat groomed on a regular basis. Regular brushing/bathing of cats greatly reduces the dried saliva/bacteria that is present in a cat's coat (from their own self-bathing), which is the main allergen to people. This is why so many more people are allergic to cats than dogs - it is not the hair, or the dander, it is because cats bathe themselves so much more frequently than dogs do and leave a residue on their coats that can cause a reaction in people.

Cats can be very tolerant of baths and certainly of brushing; the main difference between grooming a dog vs. grooming a cat is, you can TELL a dog that it needs to be groomed, whereas with a cat, you have to ASK him. If he says "No!" (as cats can, in many ways!), simply back off, relax and re-ask more slowly again. Eventually, if you approach the process calmly and deliberately, without overwhelming kitty, you will be surprised to find that most cats not only will tolerate regular brushing, bathing and/or nail trimming, but some actually enjoy it, and are quite comfortable with the process! Ideally, it is best to start them on a regular grooming schedule when they are young; in fact, many people who are mildly allergic to cats have found that they can keep a cat in their home without allergic reaction by regularly bathing them every few weeks or so.

Although cats do groom themselves quite often, their coats still benefit from a thorough shampooing and conditioning, as well as regular brushing to remove loose hair and dander, and to prevent matting on the longer-haired cats as well. If grooming your own new cat is too daunting for you to attempt, we recommend that you find a gentle, professional groomer who LIKES cats (this is important - many groomers only want to work on dogs, so you may need to ask around to locate one that is "cat-friendly") you will be pleasantly surprised at how clean and healthy your cat's coat will feel, and how nice it is to not have shedding or matting to contend with. Just like with dogs, some people will even opt to have their cats shaved to eliminate shedding, or to lessen the maintenance of a long-haired coat; this is up to you as the new owner to decide what is best for you and your new feline friend.

Typically, cats will get bathed every 2-3 months, with a good brushing as needed. Nails should be trimmed (even a large human toe-nail clipper will do the job) as often as needed - every 6-8 weeks approximately. Some cats will even tolerate having their teeth brushed! Regular ear cleaning with a vet-approved ear cleaner and swabs is a good idea as well; however, if you notice your new feline friend scratching or shaking his head excessively, you should bring him to see a vet to check for ear mites or possible infection - simply cleaning it will not be enough.

Regular, very positive grooming sessions with your new feline friend will help to build a strong bond between the two of you; again, EASY DOES IT when asking a cat to accept the various levels of grooming - let him get comfortable with the idea of it first, and your new friend will surely learn to cooperate and maybe even enjoy the attention when being groomed and cared for by you!

Back To Cat Resources | Back To Top of Page

Excessive shedding
Cats shed, however excessive shedding is something that can be caused by a number of factors such as diet, stress level and the time of year.

• Diet - Make sure the food you're feeding your cat contains essential fatty acids Omega 3 and 6. If not consider changing foods or adding a supplement to your cat's diet.
• Stress level - High stress can cause a cat to shed more, and with a shelter cat a lot of shedding when you first bring a new adult cat home is a reaction to being in a new environment. It should improve with time.
• Time of Year - The typical formula of shedding to coincide with spring and fall is not necessarily the case for indoor cats and they may shed at different times or all the time.

In terms of dealing with excessive shedding, the tips in the grooming section are important to maintain a healthy coat and minimize shedding. However there are times when you may need some extra help and professional groomers can help with shedding problems, and there are groomers that groom cats. If you have ever tackled this problem on your own, you know how you can brush, and brush, and brush, and the cat is still losing hair, it's very frustrating. One tool that is very effective for deshedding a cat is called a Furminator. Think of the Terminator with an F. They are sold at Petsmart and Petco. The Furminator has a unique edge that grabs and removes the loose hair from the undercoat and is an invaluable tool to help when shedding gets excessive. Be prepared for a lot of hair to come out and use it in a place that is easy to clean up as it doesn't catch hair like a brush, but pulls it out. Use of a Furminator, along with a bath can help tremendously with shedding. A bath washes away oil and loosens the fur. After the fur dries, the Furminator very effectively pulls it out.

Back To Cat Resources | Back To Top of Page

Security
Provide your cat with safety and security. Always use a cat carrier when transporting your pet. Protect him by making certain that all windows are securely screened, and that the washer and dryer are kept closed and are inspected before each use. Get into the habit of ensuring that drawers, closets, and cupboards are uninhabited before you close them. And for your own security, put a collar and tag on your feline - there's always the chance he may slip outside by mistake, and you want to make sure he can be identified as your pet.

Back To Cat Resources | Back To Top of Page

Health Care
Watch your new pet for signs of illness, lethargy, nasal or eye discharge, excessive sneezing, vomiting or persistent diarrhea. The incubation period for viruses can be a week or more, so a cat that is healthy on the day it's adopted, could become ill within a week, especially kittens that don't have fully developed immune systems and are experiencing major stress when they are separated from their mom, siblings and in your home, which is new and scary to a young cat. Vaccinations stimulate immunities which increase as kittens age, but they are not a guarantee to eliminate all illness. Adult animals are more resilient, but still living creatures that can experience health problems. New Pet Health Assurance is designed to protect you against costly medical treatment should your new cat get sick.

Adult cats should see a veterinarian at least once as year. Kittens should have distemper boosters and require more than a yearly visit. Consult with your veterinarian to establish a schedule for visits during kitten's first year.

Back To Cat Resources | Back To Top of Page

Cat House Rules
Provide your cat with some "basic training" to help him get along in your home. It's true that cats usually have their own ideas about how to do things. Even so, most cats can be taught to obey simple rules like not scratching the couch, eating plants, or jumping up on the kitchen counter. With repeated, gentle, and consistent training, your cat will learn.

Cats respond to and can learn what NO means, but another behavior modification method that works well with cats is to offer alternatives to behavior, not just prohibitions. For example:

• If you don't want your cat on the counter, find another spot in the kitchen where it's ok for your cat to hang out from on high, like the top of the refrigerator and move him there anytime you catch him on the counter.
• You don't want your cat to scratch the furniture, get him a scratching post and put him there whenever you catch him scratching.
• You don't want you cat eating plants, grow some catnip and move him to the catnip whenever you see him by the plants.

Repetition and consistency are key, but eventually your cat will get the idea.

Fully clawed cats have a natural need to scratch, which is how your cat exercises his leg muscles and trims nails. There are a couple things you can do to avoid destructive scratching.

• Provide an acceptable spot for the cat to scratch such as a scratching post, or a cardboard box. Cats like to play in boxes, so a cardboard box can be a toy and a scratching outlet. Use verbal reinforcement to praise the cat for using their scratching post/box and rubbing catnip on the designated scratching area is a good way to create a positive draw and facilitate this healthy habit.
• Also, trimming nails regularly reduces their need to scratch.
• If you are unable to keep your cat from damaging your possessions with its claws, please consult a veterinarian about available options for managing this behavior, either through medical intervention or more advanced behavioral methods.

Back To Cat Resources | Back To Top of Page

Cat Discipline
At the time of bad behavior, spray your cat with a squirt gun or the canned air used to clean computer keyboards works very well (cats hate the sound). Water/air doesn't hurt them, it just annoys and they'll get the message. Once they discover they don't like the water or air, frequently all you'll need to do is pick up the bottle. The cat will know what's coming and no spray is necessary.

Cats will respond to the slightest change of tone in their owner's voice. Often, a discouraging, "No", delivered in a warning tone, will cause them to abort the offending behavior beforehand.

Use the Face Push, i.e. use your open palm to push the cat's face away firmly when it bites or engages in bad behavior. Another way to calm a cat down that is overly enthused with play biting and rough housing is to grab the cat by the scruff on the back of the neck and hold it down. Scruffing is how a mom cat controls a kitten and is a well understood signal in the cat world to calm down. Do not carry the cat by the scruff or dangle it in the air, hold it down. Do not do this if the cat is angry or scared, you could get bitten.

Treats work wonders. Reward your cat when he/she conforms to good behavior.

Back To Cat Resources | Back To Top of Page

What makes a cat friendly and social vs isolated and non-social?

It's a well known fact that cats are wired differently from dogs and everyone has known non social cats that are not very good companion pets. Cats are not pack animals with a social system like dogs and in nature, adult cats live solitary lives with no need for companionship. While adult cats are very independent, kittens prefer companionship and being part of a group. What changes as a cat grows older? Kittens cling to their mother, siblings and humans to receive food, affection and protection. The key to keeping an adult cat social is to keep it in "kitten" mode by being the giver of food, affection and protection to your cat. Below are some tips that are helpful in understanding cat motivation and useful to help you keep a cat social and friendly.

Food is a major motivator. A kitten knows that their mother or someone else needs to provide it food and it naturally gravitates towards that person and works hard to cultivate a close relationship to insure that the food keeps coming. In nature, as kittens mature they are expected to learn to take care of and feed themselves. As they mature, they lose their need to bond to their mother and siblings and become totally independent, finding their own food and doing whatever it takes to protect themselves. Feral cats, for instance, totally provide food and protection for themselves and have no need for any interaction.

One way to maintain the "kitten" in your cat is to make sure your cat KNOWS it is dependent on you for food, affection and protection. This encourages your cat to bond with you to continue to get the things it wants and needs.

Free feeding, where an adult cat has access to unlimited food at all times is not helpful because, besides contributing to obesity, in the cat's mind, it hunted, found its own food, (which is always in the bowl) and you are not necessary. It's important to maintain the impression with the cat that in order to eat, it needs YOU to provide. Instead of free feeding, have specific times when the cat sees you put food in the bowl and give it to him or her. Let the bowl become empty, and let the cat come to you for a refill. Use limited amount of canned food as a treat and to encourage social behavior.

Affection is also important to a kitten and will keep your adult cat interested in human interaction in order to continue to receive affection. Ways of showing affection are:

• Play with the cat. It reminds the cat of how it played with its siblings.
• Allow the cat to sit/lay with you, like it gathered and slept with its siblings.
• Use high pitched tones when talking to the cat, it reminds them of their mother's gentle meowing.
• Pet and brush your cat. It reminds them of how their mother groomed them.
• Be gentle and respect the cat's space.

Protection is important also. A kitten is protected by its mother; an adult cat has to fend for itself. If your cat sees you as its protector, it is more likely to behave towards and bond with you as it would his or her own mother. A cat views ANY unknown person or situation with some sense of caution. If you expose your cat to different people and circumstances, your cat may experience some fear, but if you are holding, reassuring and guarding your cat and maybe even giving the cat a treat, once it sees that it's safe, it will conclude that it's safe because YOU provided protection. The bond between you and your cat is strengthened and you've allowed the cat to expand its experiences and become less fearful of the unknown.

Lastly, keep your cat indoors. Besides the multitude of dangers that cats face outdoors and a proven shortened life span, an outdoor existence conditions a cat towards independence, making you less necessary and contributes to anti social behavior.

Back To Cat Resources | Back To Top of Page

Cat Play and Toys
Finally, provide your cat with an interesting indoor environment. Cats love to play and will appreciate simple and inexpensive toys. Ping-Pong balls and paper bags can provide hours of fun. A comfortable perch by a window can become your cat's very own entertainment and relaxation center.

Toys are very important for cats. They not only fight boredom, they also give cats a chance to express their prey-chasing drives. If you're the one moving the toy while your cat chases after it, playtime can be a bonding experience for both of you.

Back To Cat Resources | Back To Top of Page

Introducing a New Cat to your Existing Cat
A few rules to help introduce a new cat to your home when you already have a cat:

• Isolate the newcomer in a separate room to allow your existing cat to get used to the idea there is another cat in the house.
• Try not to disturb the routine of your existing cat too much. Major changes in where your cat sleeps or a relocation of a litter box will stress your cat and make the introduction more difficult.
• At some point allow your cat to see the new cat. That could be with a baby gate to restrict contact, use of a dog crate where the new cat is confined allowing your existing cat to check it out, or a crack in the door between two rooms that will allow for some nose touching without full body contact.



• It's important that you do not force contact and let the cats work this out on their own timetable.
• Hissing, posturing and growling is normal. If there is screeching and panic you need to continue with limited contact.
• Do not proceed to the next step until the cats seem relatively calm in each other's presence.



• At some point with your existing cat occupied allow the new cat out to roam freely. Downplay the situation, don't make a big deal, let the cats happen upon each other or just watch each other from a distance, which they may do for several days.
• There may be some stalking, chasing or sparring. As long as there is not a full blown cat fight, this territorial behavior is the step beyond the watching from a distance stage and a prelude to normalization. Do not leave them unsupervised. Keep a spray bottle with water on hand to water down any over aggressive behavior and never try to touch a cat that is involved in a fight, you'll get bit.
• Eventually hostilities will decline. Try bouncing a ping pong ball or use some toy to attract their interest towards something besides each other and with the change in focus, they may discover they're interacting and not even be aware of it. They'll come to see each other as potential playmates rather than competitors.
• Feed cats separately and maintain separate litter boxes until it's clear that everybody is friends. Don't be in a hurry to consolidate. If a cat in a passive aggressive way blocks another cat from a litter box, the cat will have no choice except to create a new toilet area. Separate litter boxes may be necessary for a long time, if not always.

Back To Cat Resources | Back To Top of Page

Managing Dogs and Cats
Dogs and cats can and do get along. When they first meet, the dog has a HIGH interest in the cat, whereas the cat has a very LOW interest in the dog and may be scared to death. Your challenge it to try and moderate the interest levels of both cat and dog more towards the middle, while making sure kitty is safe, to facilitate a peaceful co-existence.

When a new dog comes into kitty's home, or vice versa, there is always a period of adjustment. One helpful thing you can do to facilitate acceptance is to try and avoid situations where the cat runs from the dog. While it's instinctual for a cat to run to a safe place if it senses danger, the running triggers a chase reflex in a dog. Once a pattern is established that the cat runs and the dog chases, not only will they never get along, but the situation could become dangerous as the dog starts to see the cat as "prey".

• If the situation is really difficult and the cat is freaked out, you can allow them to sniff each other under a closed door. This may need to go on for several days. Once everyone realizes the other isn't leaving, they may calm down.
• Try to facilitate a situation where they can see each other, but not touch. Keep the dog on a leash and put the cat on a high spot where he will feel safe and be less likely to run.
• If kitty is manageable and you trust your dog not to harm the cat, hold kitty on your lap and allow some limited nose touching on kitty's terms. If that goes well, the next step is for the dog to sniff the cats behind. The cat may or may not be receptive to that and it may take several sessions before that can happen. Once a dog gets his fill of kitty smell, his interest in the cat will diminish.
• A little aggressive behavior on the part of the cat towards the dog isn't all bad. It sends the message that kitty is no push over. Correct the dog forcefully with "NO!" whenever there is any rude or aggressive behavior towards the cat.
• The goal is to manage the situation where there is NO running/chasing, NO lunging at the cat, NO provocative nose poking or biting, and the dog minds his manners. Eventually as the cat feels safer around the dog and will stand his/her ground, not run away and feel free to express some tolerance or even interest towards the dog. The dog having figured out that the pack leader demands he/she respect the cat, there's not going to be a chase, and the kitty smell is yesterdays news, will lose interest in the cat. There will be peace and maybe even a respectful friendship will eventually form.

Enjoy Your Rewards.

Now that you've made certain all the basic provisions are attended to, you can relax and enjoy your new pet. It may take a couple of weeks for him to adjust to life with you. But before you know it, you'll be curled up on the couch together, watching TV like old pals, and you won't remember what life was like without him.

Back To Cat Resources | Back To Top of Page